Three litres of the highest-rated standard Brunello from this estate: 99 points from Wine Enthusiast, from the five-star 2016 vintage. There is one. The combination collectors wait years for.
Luminous garnet with bright reflections. The nose gives blue flowers and rose, undergrowth and leather, with blackberry, tobacco, musk and liquorice. Elegant and enveloping on the palate, with vibrant minerality and fine, integrated tannins. From three litres this is unmistakably a young wine: the earthy, animal layer the bottle now shows still lies deeply tucked away, and what you taste is above all fruit and structure. That is not a shortfall but a promise. Lay it down until at least 2030, then bring a decanter and a table of twelve. Around 18 degrees. Lovely with roast red meat, game or an aged pecorino.
In Montalcino, grandparents call their granddaughters potazzine, after the small, brightly coloured birds of the Tuscan countryside. That is what their grandmother called Viola and Sofia, the daughters of owner Gigliola Giannetti — and the estate grew in step with them: Viola was born in 1993, the founding year, and when Sofia arrived in 1996 two more hectares took the total to five.
The Brunello is made traditionally here: a spontaneous fermentation of some forty days on the estate's own wild yeasts, without temperature control, followed by more than three years in casks of 30 and 50 hectolitres of Slavonian oak from Garbellotto. Unfiltered.
Five hectares, 35,000 bottles a year, and a single example of this format from one of the great vintages.