The same wine as the bottle, but in magnum: one and a half litres that age more slowly and last longer. Ripe cherry, dried herbs and crushed stone, with cellaring potential well beyond 2035.
Bright ruby red with a purple sheen. The nose is young and open: cherry and wild blueberry, violets, and behind them Mediterranean herbs and a trace of leather. Juicy on the palate and surprisingly concentrated for a Rosso, with fine tannins that give structure without gripping, and a lively acidity holding it together. The finish runs long on red woodland fruit and crushed stone. In magnum the wine sits noticeably tighter and more closed than in bottle, holding its structure in reserve — give it a few years, or decant an hour ahead. Around 16 degrees, at a table that takes its time over it.
In Montalcino, grandparents call their granddaughters potazzine, after the small, brightly coloured birds of the Tuscan countryside. That is what their grandmother called Viola and Sofia, the daughters of owner Gigliola Giannetti — and the estate grew in step with them: Viola was born in 1993, the founding year, and when Sofia arrived in 1996 two more hectares took the total to five.
The Rosso here is no by-product. Almost half the Brunello production is declassified into Rosso: the same vineyards, the same wild yeasts, the same forty-day fermentation — only twelve months in the large Slavonian casks instead of nearly four years. Unfiltered, like everything here.
Large formats are made in small numbers here, and not every year. Those who want them need to be early.
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